Morocco Desert Raid. Day 6. Exploring Chefchaouen to Fez: A journey through the marjuana fields.

The sixth day of our Morocco motorbike tour brought a mix of unexpected surprises and rich cultural experiences. From waking up to feline visitors on our motorcycle seats to navigating remote roads lined with marijuana fields, this day was a vivid reminder of how diverse and unpredictable touring Morocco can be. Our destination was Fez, a city known for its deep history and unique crafts, including the origin of the famous Tommy Cooper hat. This post shares the highlights and challenges of the day, offering a glimpse into the realities of motorcycle touring off the beaten path.

Cat resting on motorcycle seats during Morocco motorbike tour

Morning Surprises and Setting Off

The day began with a charming yet unexpected scene: our motorbike seats had become the chosen resting spots for local cats. This small moment set the tone for a day full of surprises. After gently shooing our new feline friends away, we prepared for the ride ahead.

Leaving Chefchaouen, we took the up-and-over route heading southwest. This path led us into the hills where town names appeared only in Arabic script, signaling that we were truly off the beaten track. The roads started well but soon deteriorated, making the motorcycle tour more challenging and requiring careful attention.

Riding Through Marijuana Fields and Rural Life

One of the most striking sights along this route was the vast expanses of openly grown marijuana fields. Acres of green stretched out under the sun, tended by many farmers who seemed content with their work. This open cultivation is a reality in some rural parts of Morocco, and seeing it first hand was eye-opening. Although strictly illegal, some farmers are given special dispensation to grow 'kif' as it's the only source of income here. It is strictly for 'medical' use (officer), although more than half of Europe's imported marijuana comes from here.

Despite the natural beauty outside towns, the contrast inside villages was stark. Roadsides were often littered with plastic and rubbish. Workers could be seen sweeping pavements, only to burn the collected plastic further down the street. The smell of burning plastic clung to our helmets long after passing through these areas, a reminder of environmental challenges faced by local communities.

Approaching Fez and Finding Our Riad

As we neared Fez, the landscape shifted from rural hills to the mountainous outskirts of the city. We parked our motorcycles in a public car park guarded by a local, which felt safe enough for our needs. The guard’s presence was reassuring, especially when leaving our touring steeds unattended. But like anything, a good backhander and he will sleep with our bikes tonight.

Our accommodation was a small but comfortable riad nestled deep within the old Jewish quarter. The narrow alleyways leading to it felt like a rabbit warren, a maze that added to the charm of staying in Fez. There was a hiccup with overbooking, but the staff handled it quickly, ensuring we settled in without much fuss.

Narrow alleyways in Fez's old Jewish quarter during our motorcycle tour

Exploring Fez with Musthapa

After a quick change, we met Musthapa, a local guide who took us on a walking tour of Fez. His knowledge brought the city to life, especially the traditional crafts that have defined Fez for centuries.

We visited copper workers hammering intricate designs, leather workers preparing hides, and the famous tanneries. The tanneries were particularly memorable, not just for their history but for the strong, distinctive smell that fills the air. Musthapa explained the processes and the significance of these crafts in Morocco’s culture and economy.

One highlight was discovering what is claimed to be the narrowest street in the world. Walking through it felt like stepping back in time, surrounded by beautiful architecture that has stood for hundreds of years.

Reflecting on the Day’s Journey

Though the distance covered was only about 200 kilometers, the journey took five hours including breaks. The slow pace was due to road conditions, stops to take in the sights, and the rich experiences along the way. Touring Morocco by motorcycle means embracing these moments, where the journey itself becomes as important as the destination.

Dinner and rest awaited us back at the riad, with anticipation building for the next day’s ride into the mountains. The mix of rural landscapes, cultural immersion, and the challenges of the road made this day a memorable chapter in the Morocco Desert Raid.

Copper workshop artisans in Fez during our motorcycle tour.