Morocco Desert Raid. Day 13. The Road to Meknes.

The road north from Ouzoud was anything but boring. If you think riding a motorbike through Morocco is all smooth highways and scenic views, think again. This stretch was packed with rickety bridges, sneaky bends hiding dips and potholes, and enough surprises to keep even the most seasoned motorcycle adventurer on their toes. Welcome to Day 13 of the Morocco Desert Raid 25, where the journey through barren towns and the approach to Meknes tested our nerves, navigation skills, and patience.

The husle and bustle of Meknes.

Leaving Ouzoud: The Road Less Traveled

The road out of Ouzoud was a rollercoaster for motorbike riders. Imagine sweeping bends that suddenly reveal hidden dips or double apexes, and potholes big enough to swallow a small motorcycle tire. Ok, it wasn't that bad but each corner demanded full attention, and every moment was a potential "squeaky bum" experience. The thrill of touring Morocco on two wheels is real, especially when the route is far from the usual tourist trails.

As we ventured further north, the signs changed. No more English or French town names. Instead, Arabic and Amazigh hieroglyphics took over, signalling that we were deep into local territory. The mountains closed in tightly around us, and the small town of Bouazza was a maze of narrow streets and bustling markets.

Bouazza Market: Motorbikes Meet Pedestrians

Our satnavs—Calimoto, Garmin, and TomTom—decided to throw a tantrum all at once. They insisted we ride through a busy pedestrian market that filled both sides of the road. So, we did what any sensible group of motorcycle adventurers would do: we became the spectacle of the day. Picture a convoy of big foreign motorbikes weaving slowly through a sea of locals, stalls, and curious onlookers.

Out in the mountains somewhere in Morocco.

Of course, the inevitable happened. Our satnavs lost their minds completely, refusing to locate us. The next best option was to ask for directions from a local copper. The policeman pointed at us to follow a car, but that car led us down a dusty driveway that looked suspiciously wrong. Ignoring the lead, we doubled back through the market, dodging gawking locals who seemed to think we were some kind of circus act.

Choosing a New Route: Scenic and Speedy

Escaping Bouazza was a relief. We opted for a different route out of town, which turned out to be just as pretty but a bit quicker. The landscape shifted from crowded market chaos to open roads flanked by rugged mountains and sparse vegetation. This part of Morocco feels untouched, a perfect playground for motorcycle touring enthusiasts who crave adventure off the beaten path.

Arriving in Meknes: History Meets Modern Chaos

Meknes greeted us with a mix of old-world charm and modern-day challenges. Navigating the city was mostly straightforward, except for one close call when a moped cut across one of our group members. Motorcycles and mopeds share the roads here, but sometimes their dance gets a little too close for comfort.

Our bikes were parked safely with a guard outside the ancient city walls. Our riad, a traditional Moroccan guesthouse, was just inside those walls. Hassan, our host, welcomed us warmly with tea and biscuits—a perfect way to unwind after a day of intense riding.

Traditional restaurant Aisha's, run and owned entirely by women.

Exploring Meknes and Tasting Rfissa

After freshening up, we wandered into the town centre. I know a charming restaurant run entirely by women and owned by Aisha. She doesn't take any prisoners and is a good laugh. The atmosphere was cozy, and the food was a revelation.

I tried Rfissa for the first time. It’s a dish made from chopped messemen pancake, fried with spices and chicken. If you’ve ever had kottu in Sri Lanka, you’ll find it familiar—chopped rotti or chapatti mixed with spices and fried up. The flavours were rich and comforting, a perfect end to a day filled with adventure and unexpected detours.

A City on Alert

Meknes had a noticeable police presence. The day before, there had been small protests about the amount of money the government is allocating to the World Cup instead of hospitals, yet we haven't personally encountered any protestors. The extra security added a layer of tension but didn’t dampen the spirit of the city or our adventure.

Tips for Motorcycle Touring in Morocco’s Remote Areas

• Prepare for unpredictable roads: Expect potholes, sudden bends, and rickety bridges. Keep your speed in check and stay alert.

• Don’t rely solely on satnavs: In remote towns like Bouazza, GPS can fail. Be ready to ask locals for directions, even if it means some creative problem-solving.

• Respect local markets: Riding through pedestrian markets is not common, but sometimes necessary. Take it slow and be patient with curious onlookers.

• Watch out for mopeds: In cities like Meknes, mopeds can appear suddenly. Stay vigilant to avoid close calls.

• Embrace local hospitality: Hosts like Hassan and restaurants run by locals offer authentic experiences that enrich your travel.

  
  

Wrapping Up the Day

Day 13 of the Morocco Desert Raid 25 was a wild ride—literally and figuratively. From dodging potholes and navigating market crowds to savoring new dishes and soaking in the history of Meknes, this day had it all. Motorcycle touring in Morocco is not just about the destination; it’s about the stories you collect on the way. If you’re up for an adventure that tests your riding skills and your sense of humor, this road to Meknes is calling.

Ready to hit the road? Pack your gear, keep your wits about you, and get ready for the unexpected. Morocco’s deserts and mountains are waiting.

Meknes city walls at sunset