Alps & Tyrol 2026: Stelvio, Umbrail & Furka Pass by Motorbike – Day 7
Day 7 – 380km
Stelvio day!
After heading west for what seemed like several hours — although it was actually only two — we stopped for coffee in Prato before taking on one of the biggest highlights of our Alps and Tyrol motorcycle tour.
Today we were riding the legendary Stelvio Pass, followed by the Umbrail and Furka passes in Switzerland.
It was going to be a big day riding in the Alps.
Taking on the Stelvio Pass
The Stelvio Pass is the highest paved pass in the Eastern Alps and the second-highest paved pass in the Alps, rising to around 2,757 metres.
The climb up the eastern side takes in the famous 48 hairpins, winding their way dramatically up the mountainside.
It's a spectacular piece of road, although I've ridden some roads in the Pyrenees that are considerably more challenging.
The difference here?
They don't have buses and campervans coming up and down them!
A Stelvio Hairpin Incident
The going was all good as we climbed, enjoying the views and the increasingly dramatic road.
That was until a Volvo decided to stop mid-turn, with me directly behind it and nowhere else to go.
So I did what I could and stepped off the bike, leaving it to gently rest on its side at turn 6.
Thankfully, it was nothing serious. Just a scratch, and the bike was sitting there with its wheels in the air!
It could have been a lot worse.
At the same time, someone else in the group got pushed into the wall by an oncoming car and ended up losing his hand guard.
Thankfully, we were both safe and sound.
That's the important thing.
After the obligatory photos at the top, the weather started turning for the worse, so we decided not to hang around.
Leaving Stelvio for the Umbrail Pass
Rather than continuing all the way down the western side of the Stelvio, we headed halfway down before turning off onto the Umbrail Pass.
This winding, wooded route is lovely, with a very different feel to the exposed hairpins of the Stelvio.
The wind, however, was starting to pick up, with gusts appearing here and there — usually just when you weren't expecting them.
It certainly kept us on our toes.
Eventually, we crossed into Switzerland, where we stopped for lunch before beginning a long ride westwards.
Chasing the Weather Across Switzerland
The weather was starting to look increasingly unsettled.
Rain clouds threatened and, gradually, the threat became reality as we were hit by a torrent of rain.
Then, just minutes later...
It was all clear!
That's mountain weather for you.
One minute you're riding in sunshine, the next you're wondering whether you've accidentally ridden into the middle of a monsoon.
Climbing the Furka Pass
As we started the climb up the Furka Pass, the clouds ahead looked decidedly ominous.
We made a quick stop at James Bond Strasse, the location associated with Goldfinger, where Pussy Galore takes a pot shot at Sean Connery.
Then it was back on the bikes and upwards.
Suddenly, the clouds rolled in and we were completely covered by a blanket of thick fog.
Visibility dropped dramatically, and with the occasional oncoming car appearing out of the mist, it wasn't exactly the most pleasant experience.
But we persevered.
Slow and steady.
Breaking Out of the Clouds
Thankfully, on the descent, the clouds finally began to part.
That gave us the opportunity to stop and grab a decent photo at the Belvedere Hotel, before continuing down into the valley.
At this point, though, the weather decided it hadn't finished with us.
The heavens opened.
Again.
We arrived late and absolutely sodden at our accommodation for the evening. Unfortunately, we were too late for a decent dinner, but at least the bar was still open.
And after 380km, a drink was very much in order.
Drying Out After 380km
The rest of the evening was spent doing what every wet motorcycle traveller eventually ends up doing:
Drying boots with hairdryers!
Not exactly glamorous, but all part of the adventure.
We've now tackled the Stelvio Pass, Umbrail Pass and Furka Pass, crossed through Italy and Switzerland, survived some seriously changeable Alpine weather and managed to keep the bikes — and ourselves — mostly upright.
But it looks like our luck with the weather has finally run out!
Day 7 complete. 380km in the bag.
Tomorrow is another day in the Alps. Hopefully a slightly drier one!
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